The History of Pizza
Our thanks
to...Steve Saviello and The Communes of Italy In one of its many forms, pizza has been a basic part of the Italian diet since
the Stone Age. Italian pizza evolved from two basic concepts by two cultures.
The Etrucians in the north and the Greeks in the south each made a contribution.
The older of the two was brought to northern Italy by the Etruscans, from the
Levant area of Asia Minor. This earliest form of pizza was a crude bread that
was baked beneath the stones of the fire. After cooking, it was seasoned with
a variety of different toppings and used instead of plates and utensils to sop
up broth or gravies. This notion of a flavored bread as a side dish evolved
into what is known as focaccia in Italy. A few hundred years later when the Greeks colonized the southern part of Italy,
the second concept was introduced. The Greeks took the idea of bread as an edible
serving dish further than the Etruscans. They didn't flavor the top of the bread
after it had been cooked. They would bake the flavorings directly on the bread
itself, and the topped bread became the main course. Finally, the Romans embraced
both the Etruscan and the Greek concepts, and they went on to create a full
slate of dishes based on these early prototypes. Combined with their conquering
ways the concept spread and all over Italy today there are hundreds of styles
and variations of pizza, which vary from region to region and town to town.
The general opinion amongst most people now is that pizza was invented by the
Italians. And, in fact, Cato, a Roman statesman (234-149 B.C.E.), writes about
"flat rounds of dough dressed with olive oil, herbs and honey baked on
stones." More recently ...The tomato was introduced to Italy from South America around
1522. At first it was believed to be poisonous. It was held in low esteem by
most Europeans, but the poorer people of Naples, who subsisted quite literally
on their daily bread, added the new tomatoes to their yeast dough, and created
the first simple pizza as we know it. Tomato seeds traveled from the lower Andes of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia to
Spain. There the seeds bore small yellow tomatoes, hence the name d'oro or "golden
apple". Used mostly as an ornamental plant, the tomato did not become readily
accepted as a food until the middle of the 18th century. By the 17th century, pizza had achieved a local popularity amongst visitors
to Naples who would venture into the poorer sections to taste this peasant dish
made by men called pizzaioli. The first pizzeria in Naples opened in 1830 and pizza was only thought of as
a curiosity by those from out of town. The
first pizza delivery was in 1889, by Raffaele Esposito owner of the famous pizzeria
Pietro il Pizzaiolo (Naples). The recipients were King Umberto I and Queen Margherita
of Savoy who were residing with the queen's family in Capodimonte Park. Refusing
to go to the likes of a pizzeria, the queen ordered in, being anxious to try
this food she had heard so much about. Enough ingredients were brought to make
three kinds of pizza, and after sampling all three, Queen Margherita selected
as her favorite the pizza made with tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil. Obviously
patriotism met good taste head-on, the pizza colors red white and green being
the same as the Italian flag. Nevertheless, pizza Margherita (as this combination
became known) is to this day one of the most popular pizzas sold. The first known pizza shop was Port 'Alba in Naples. It opened in 1830 and
is still open today. In the late 19th century pizza was sold in the streets in Naples at breakfast,
lunch and dinner. It was cut from a large tray that had been cooked in the baker's
oven and had a simple topping of mushrooms and anchovies. As pizza became more
popular, stalls were set up where the dough was shaped as customers ordered.
Various toppings were invented. The tomato, which had arrived from the New World,
was one of the most popular.The stalls soon developed into the pizzeria, an
open air place for people to congregate, eat, drink and talk. The coal-fired
ovens reached up to 750 degrees Fahrenheit. These early eating places have gradually
become the pizza parlors that we have today. The flavor of a pizza made, baked
and cooked in the open air is unbeatable. Pizza had become the first fast food known to man but the pizza remained a
local delicacy until the concept crossed the Atlantic with the immigrants from
Naples who settled along the Eastern seaboard. The types of ingredients that
these immigrants found in their new country differed from those in the old.
Cow's milk mozzarella was substituted for the buffalo-milk cheese. Sweet marjoram
was used in the place of oregano. Even the tomatoes, flour and water were all
different. Newly arrived Italian immigrants to America would pay local bakers a small
fee for the use of their wood or coal fueled brick oven during slow times of
the day to bake their own bread as a way to save money. To appease the appetites
of hungry children while they were baking, they would bake extra dough with
tomato along side the bread and hand it out while they continued to bake. As
the immigrants became established, they could afford to buy their bread so the
bakers started selling large trays of this baker's focaccia to them also. They
consisted of dough, tomato puree, oregano, basil, and grated Romano cheese.
This practice was the first pizza to be sold in America. This century ... In the early 20th century Italians toiling in these bakeries were starting
up their own bakeries which also sold groceries and pizza. This was a time of
building a business and a better life in the New World for their families. The
first such Italian bakery was opened by Gennaro Lombardi at 53 1/2 Spring Street
in New York City in 1905. This became the first pizzeria in America and the
model for subsequent pizzerias throughout the northeast. It wasn't until the
early 1930's that he added tables and chairs and sold spaghetti as well. In the 1920's, family operated pizzerias started to appear all over the Northeastern
States. The pizzaiolo was looked on as a hero in the neighborhood. Pizza was
prepared as it was back in Naples. Toppings were limited to combinations of
fresh tomatoes, garlic, anchovies, olives, mushrooms and sometimes fresh sausage,
with or without mozzarella. Because there was no refrigeration, the mozzarella
and the dough was made daily and everything had to be used up each day. Outside of the larger eastern cities of the U.S., Pizza still remained mainly
unknown even into the 1940's. It wasn't until the end of the Second World War
that its popularity began to increase. Added to this was the increased taste
for pizza gained by any American GI's who had spent any time in Italy. In 1943, Chicago-style deep-dish pizza appeared onto the scene. Sold at Pizza
Uno by Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo, this pan pizza was a reinterpretation of
the Italian ingredients to appeal to American tastes. Today, pan pizza accounts
for about 22% of total pizza orders. In 1948, the first commercial pizza-pie mix, "Roman Pizza Mix", was
produced in Worcester, Massachusetts by Frank A. Fiorello. Prior to 1950, recipes for pizza still did not appear in cookbooks specializing
in Italian food. In the 1950's & 60's the popularity of pizza soared in the U.S., finding
a solid place in the American diet along side hot dogs, hamburgers and apple
pie. In larger cities such as New York and Chicago, pizza was being sold by
the slice, an especially popular choice for a quick lunch. Pizza supply houses began to emerge providing dough, sauce and toppings to
the pizzerias. They fulfilled the need for consistency and reduced labor cost,
at the expense of high quality ingredients. Consequently, all pizza began to
taste the same because all the pizzerias began to use the same manufacturers. In 1957, pizza could also be found in the frozen foods display case. The first
was marketed by the Celentano Brothers. Pizza soon became the most popular of
all frozen foods. Sadly the art of the pizzaiolo had lost its importance. Second and third generation
children wanted to pursue other careers. Pizza making was now a big business,
not a family busines. From the 1970's to the present day many factors have influenced the ongoing
evolution of pizza in North America. Things such as the popularity of franchising,
the necessity of two sources of income to support the family, [and the development
of nationwide chains and delivery have affected not only the way we eat pizza,
but the taste of the pizza itself.] Studying the history of pizza, one can appreciate how outside influences can
be assimilated into culture and its cuisine. It is of greater interest to observe
how differing people and cultures embraced this food and changed it according
to their unique environments. If one assumes that pizza must include tomatoes,
a date and place can be established, however, if one investigates the history
of the basic ingredients of dough, a new study opens up of different cultures.
The French have their pissaladiere, the Middle Eastern countries have pita bread,
whereas Spain uses the dough in pastries, and in China, it is served as steamed
stuffed snacks. Whether one predates the other matters not. What is important
is the appreciation of the difference. What role pizza will play in our lives in the future is as difficult to predict
as lifestyles. So many factors can change. Imagine for a second, what the impact
would be if the cost of delivery becomes too high due to the ever increasing
price of insurance and gasoline. However, since both lifestyle and pizza are
intertwined, it is reasonable to assume that their related evolutions will continue. Pizza migrated to America with the Italians. The first U.S. pizzeria opened
in 1905 in New York City, but it wasn't until after World War II when returning
GI's created a nationwide demand for the pizza they had eaten and loved in Italy
that pizza went public. My first recollection of pizza is homemade "box"
pizza (Chef Boyardee) with canned pizza sauce, hamburger meat, and parmesan
cheese. In the late 1950's, Shakey's and various other
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I have modified it by adding a picture from The
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The derivations
of the word "pizza" are believed to be from an "Old Italian"
word meaning "a point", which in turn became the Italian word "pizziare",
which means "to pinch" or "pluck". The first time that the
word seems to show up anywhere is in a Neapolitan dialect word - picea or piza
-circa 1000 B.C.E., referring perhaps to the manner in which the hot pie was plucked
from the oven.
The
insatiable appetite for pizza placed current methods of preparation munder stress.
To meet the growing demand in the pizzerias, pies began to be prebaked and investments
were made in recent technical advances in such kitchen equipment as dough machines,
high efficiency gas ovens and refrigeration.
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The History of Pizza (Another Version)
Considered a peasant's meal in Italy for centuries, modern pizza is attributed
to baker Raffaele Esposito of Napoli (Naples) in the Italian region of Campagna,
who in 1889 created a pizza especially for the visit of Italian King Umberto
and Queen Margherita. The pizza, named Pizza Margherita after the queen, was
very patriotic and resembled the Italian flag with its colors of red (tomatoes),
white (mozzarella cheese), and green (basil). Pizza Margherita got rave reviews
and set the standard by which today's pizza evolved. The idea of using bread
as a plate came from the Greeks, who ate flat round bread (plankuntos) baked
with an assortment of toppings. The tomato came to Italy from Mexico and Peru
through Spain in the 16th century as an ornamental plant first thought to be
poisonous. True mozzarella cheese is made from the milk of the water buffalo
imported from India to Campagna in the 7th century. So the Neopolitan baker,
as the saying goes, put it all together at the Pietro il Pizzaiolo pizzeria.
Also, in 1830 the world's first true pizzeria, Antica Pizzeria Port 'Alba in
Naples, opened and is still in business today!
mass production pizza parlors appeared and further popularized pizza.
(1) Mariani, John - The Dictionary of American Food & Drink. Hearst Book 1994.
(2) Bruno, Pasquale Jr. - The Ultimate Pizza. Contemporary Books. 1995.
(3) Slomon, Evelyne - The Pizza Book. Random House. 1984.
(4) Pizza Today - (ISSN 0743-3115) Monthly publication of the National
Association of Pizza Operators.
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location on the web.
Last edited on December 31, 2005